Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Clean vs. Foo

I want to paint candy sprinkles, with butterflies & unicorns embellished with rhinestones across my models face. Ooh, I also plan on using every color in my Coastal Scents 88 shimmer palette too. *side eye*
That folks is what we call foo-foo. Wait?! You still don't get what foo-foo is. Here let me show you.

I totally own this work. This was about 6 months into doing makeup. *hangs head in shame*

Now, if I do foo-foo, I tend to opt for a more clean foo-foo. Here, let me show you.
Clean foo-foo. 




But really, foo-foo is just for fun. Unless your name is RoShar, there is no money in foo-foo. It's all in the clean work! What is clean work? Ever seen a Kohls ad? Or a Dove ad? Yeah, that is clean. If you still do not get it, let me show you.

This is clean. And yes, I totally own this one too.

 
More clean.



If you really want to do your homework on clean beauty, check out Yisell Santos. She knows her clean work! And does it so beautifully.

But I thought makeup was about slapping every color of the rainbow on your face with exaggerated cut creases, huge false lashes, & glitter bombs? Yeah NO! I mean, sure, you can do that if you want too. But clean work is what pays the bills. What books you the big commercial jobs. Clean is also a lot harder than busting out your 120 palette & slapping color on. You have to know how to properly contour & highlight. You have to know lighting, you have to know bone structure. Lastly, you have to know when to put the brush down! Clean is about perfectly the no makeup look. 

I will be totally honest, I still struggle with clean beauty. I sadly didn't learn the lesson that clean pays and foo doesn't until almost a year into doing makeup. So, I'm like a total newbie all over again. The only reason I learned that clean is the way to go is from listening to my mentor while assisting. (See this post on assisting: Click Me) Yes, those looks you see from people like the Queen of Blending, and posted onto Sugarpill's facebook page are beautiful & incredibly well done. But that work isn't what is booking them jobs with Kohls, Dove, Forever 21, Hollister. It's the clean work!

So now, you as a newbie or even a more seasoned pro, know the difference between clean & foo-foo. It's up to you to decide which way you will go. Will you strive to be better than RoShar or Lottie. One of which is known for their outlandish makeup & one is known for their clean work.

If you have any comments, questions or something to add, please leave a comment below & don't forget to subscribe!
Thanks!


Tuesday, April 23, 2013

Assisting: From An Assistants POV



Ok, so we have all heard assisting another more experienced makeup artist is a must. Or at least it is strongly recommended. I firmly believe it is something all newer makeup artists should do. There is a wealth of knowledge that comes with assisting, especially on set etiquette. Now, I totally understand it blows being someones personal "b*tch" for the day. In all honesty, you may just end up running 5 blocks to pick up a box of tampons for a model (yes, I've done it & I ran like Pocahontas trying to save John Smith) or just washing brushes. Regardless of what you are doing, you need to watch the key! Watch their techniques, the products they use, and when there is time, ask them why. Be pro-active! Or else assisting gains you nothing.

I remember my very first time assisting. I was clueless and stumbled over myself more times than I did not. Thankfully, my key was very relaxed and knew I was a rookie. Still, no excuses. Had that been a professional set & not a test shoot, I probably would have been asked to leave the set. My jaws flapped way too much. Here's assisting advice number 1: STFU! You're not there to be a jabber jaw. You're there to be quiet and do as you're asked. Think, invisible. Now, this isn't like that for all jobs or keys, but it is a rule you should follow regardless.

I've seen so many makeup artists lately mentioning their assistants are passing around business cards & handing out their contact info. Sweet babeh Jebus, I die a little inside every time I see an artist say that. Why? Well, as an assistant we are not there to network. We are there to assist the key & make our key look good. Refer back to #1 if you need too. But in all seriousness, we are working for the key, the key is our boss, we are there to support, and do whatever our key asks of us. Stealing a client from a key is a huge no-no & will get you permanently black listed from assisting - ever. Not only that, but the key has busted their butts gaining those clients, building their book, their reputation, and for a newbie or even experienced artist to swoop in & try to steal a client is such a disrespectful move. It's a slap in the face. The key is teaching you the business & this is how you thank them? Chile, sit down, and keep reading. Assisting advice number 2: Leave your business cards at home!

Do you own a pair of black dress slacks? No?! Well you should. I've found with many assisting jobs, many key's require we wear black. Not leggings, skinny jeans, but dress slacks. Why? Black looks professional, it feels professional, and again refer to #1. Also, while we are on topic of dress code, lets sneak in some hygiene. Shower. Please shower. That should be a given, but some people need reminding. And yes, I've heard horror stories. Wear your deodorant, brush your teeth, bring mints, make sure your nails are clean. If you smoke, wear a patch or tough it out. I'm a smoker, so I honestly know how hard it is to go all day without one, but you can do it! You'll be too busy to even notice you're smoke free. Why no smoking? Imagine being around purses, coats, shoes, clothing, that costs more than most people make in a month. Would you want someones grimy smokey hands all over that? Yeah NO!!! Not to mention, you're in the talents face, the last thing you want is for the talent to smell your nasty smokey self. Ask the key what the dress code is. And neutral makeup is the way to go. Think clean. One last thing. I made the mistake of not wearing enough layers on a music video shoot. Think 30-40 degree weather in a hoodie, jeans, and dc's. Yeah, I froze my butt off. But not once did I ever complain nor would I ever want to admit that I was that stupid. So again, dress appropriately. Assisting advice number 3: Follow proper hygiene and the key's dress code.

OMG you have Chanel in your kit. *Goes to touch* Do not ever touch a key's kit, unless they grant you permission. Now I have been pretty luck with all of the key's I have assisted and they let me happily touch. I still always ask even if beforehand they give me the go ahead. It's out of respect. Key's have built a kit, spent the time, money, energy, effort and worked their butts of to build a kit that costs more than most folks make in a month. Do Not Touch. Another reason we don't touch the key's kit, is due to theft. Yep, some fools are just that, fools. Shady assistants have been known to get sticky fingers. Or some key's just plain and simple do not want other peoples hands in their kits. Assisting advice number 4: Never touch the key's kit without permission.

I thought I was here to do makeup, why am I just washing brushes? Ahhh, because you were told too. I hate washing brushes just like everyone else, but we are to do as the key asks. You wash a few brushes in exchange for the knowlege you are receiving. Model starts her monthly, and no one has a tampon, cup or pad, you run your butt - like the wind - to the nearest shop and buy them and run like the wind back. I need a latte, well, run your butt, again, like the wind to & from to the nearest Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts or coffee shop. Instead of just sitting on your butt while waiting for the next batch of brushes to be washed, take notes! Even if it is a list of questions to ask your key why they did that technique, what product was used. I took notes my very first job & I am so glad I did. I left with a better understanding of contouring, products for contouring & how to do a beautiful clean look. Assisting advice number 5: Pay attention, stop griping & LEARN something!

I'm bored, I think I shall play on my cell phone or take a little snooze. Ok, cell phones need to be turned on silent. I have kids, and most people I assist know I have kids, so they allow me to check my phone periodically to make sure there are no emergencies. No kids? No need to check your phone. Facebook can wait, trust me, it's the same ish on there everyday, you won't miss anything. Instagram is also the same. Random foodies and selfies. Those can wait too. Unless your key gives you the go ahead, keep the phone put away. Simple as that. Again, refer to #1 & 5 if you need too. Also, another artist brought to my attention that I left a key point out. DO NOT post photos of the job you are assisting to ANY social network! No Instagram, Facebook, Tumblr, Twitter, nada! This can compromise the job you are working, and that is the photographer, talents, and the keys job. End of story! But, you can say I am assisting (insert artists name) today. That is it! Assisting advice number 6: Put the phone away!

Now these are just the basics, there is much more to cover & there are many more blogs concerning assisting. But, I figured I would share what I have learned throughout my adventures in assisting. You want to be a good assistant. Yes, you more than likely will start off as an unpaid assistant & don't gripe about that either. We all start out unpaid. Pay your dues, and it will lead you to paid assisting work. I'm now at the point to where I finally get paid. It takes time. Think about it this way, even if you are not getting paid, you are. You're working on a set, watching and learning set etiquette, makeup techniques, product recommendations & experience. Assisting advice number 7: Be thankful you can assist!

Lastly, even though this should have been covered first, how do I get an assisting job? Simple, email the artist(s) you would like to assist. Know their work, good god know their work. Sell yourself. What can you bring to the table as an assistant, how can you benefit them? And what do you plan on taking away from assisting? Don't be surprised if you hear nothing back for months or get denied. It happens. So don't get all stalkerish on them either. But send out some emails, let them know you want to assist and go from there. Some artists have been burned so badly by assistants it has ruined it for them, some may simply have a loyal or several loyal assistants they use. And some, just simply have no use for one. Don't give up! Assisting advice number 8: ASK!

Ok, I think that is it. If anyone has anything to add, comment, suggest, you get the point, feel free to leave a comment.
Thanks!

Monday, April 22, 2013

Lets Talk Sanitation


I made a random trip to a makeup store yesterday to go play with a few things. Now, I've never paid much attention to the girls working the makeup counters, but given it took me an hour to get 3 samples, I had time to stare. I was truly appalled and all around concerned for these patrons health & well being. I felt like I was literally watching Staph, E-coli, & Pink eye being freely passed around.

As a professional makeup artist, my main priority other than beautifying, is my clients health. Ensuring my makeup & brushes are washed & sanitized. Why do us professionals do this? Sharing, passing, double dipping & not cleaning our brushes & makeup spreads germs, bacteria and serious illness. Who would have thought that makeup/brushes harbor e-coli, staph infection, pink eye, & pseudomonas aeruginosa. Sounds delicious eh?

How do we professionals keep our makeup & brushes safe for our clients? Firstly,  we wash our brushes after every single use. Many also spray them with 70% alcohol after washing. For mascara, we use disposables & never dip the used wand back into the tube. We use a spatula & steel mixing palette to scrape out creams & gels. This ensures no dirty brush or sponge is double dipped into clean product. Liquid foundations are also put onto the steel mixing palette. Lipsticks, if left in tube form, should have a piece put onto a steel palette, if depotted, should be put onto a steel palette. This ensures no cross contamination. We also use disposable for lips as well. For eye liner pencils & lip pencils we sharpen immediately after use and spray with beauty so clean or alcohol. One last thing, if you ever see your makeup artist or counter artist blow or lick on a brush, WALK away!

If we are working on set & have multiple models, we use the same procedures as above, but if the artist does not have a large stock of brushes they will wash on set. Cozzette, Cinema Secrets, Parian Spirit, even alcohol is use to clean brushes & sanitize them. For our makeup, 70% alcohol or Beauty So Clean is sprayed directly onto eye shadows, blushes, bronzers, highlighters, creams, liners and lipsticks. This will kill any and all bacteria rendering it safe for the next person.

You as a client, model, and consumer have every right to say NO if you see a makeup artist or counter artist practicing unsanitary methods. Your health should never be put in jeopardy. If you need to, ask your artist when the last time they washed their brushes or sanitized their makeup. Especially at a counter. Could you imagine having your wedding makeup done & having a not so sanitary artist doing it, and you end up with pink eye or worse on your honeymoon?

One last thing before I finish, makeup testers at cosmetic stores. Those harbor more germs & bacteria than anything. There have been traces of fecal matter found on those! Yep, I said it, poop! And you wanna slap that on your face to see if you like the color. Never do that! If you want to swatch anything, do it on your arm or the top of your hand, & with lipsticks you get the best color on the top of your finger since it is closest to your lip color. Or you can carry around a travel sized bottle of 70% alcohol or beauty so clean (they have wipes too) and clean it off before you swatch. And please make sure you wash your hands right afterwards, even if you just use some Germx or Purell hand sanitizer.

Links to products mentioned:
Parian Spirit 
Cinema Secrets Brush Cleaner 
Cozzette Brush Cleaner 
Beauty So Clean 

If you have any questions, something to add or comments, feel free to leave them below.
Thanks!

Friday, April 19, 2013

Makeup & Brush Sale

If you would like to purchase, please send me an email: jessiccahart@gmail.com (copy/paste the email & YES, I have 2 c's in my first name) with your email, list of items & I will send you an invoice. 
Invoices must be paid within 24hours. 
Once an item is paid for, I will remove it. 
Shipping is $6. Flat rate shipped with tracking. 
ALL sales are final.



Ben Nye Creme Highlight "CH-6 Dark"
Retail: $6
Price: $4
Swatched




[R]evolution Highlight Contour BX-35
Retail: $19.99
Price: $12
Never used.



[R]evolution Lg. Round Eye Fluff BX-65
Retail: $11.99
Price: $8
Used once.


[R]evolution Md. Fluff BX-75
Retail: $12.99
Price: $7
Never Used.
 

 
[R]evolution Detail BX-80
Retail: $9.99
Price: $6
Used 1 time.


[R]evolution Angle Fluff BX-85
Retail: $9.99
Price: $6
Never Used.


[R]evolution Crease BX-90
Retail: $11.99
Price: $8
Never Used.


Coastal Scents 88 Shimmer Palette
Retail: $11.95
Price: $8.
Used


Embryolisse Filaderme Emulsion 75 ml (2.6 fl. oz.)
Retail: $32.00
Price: $22.00
85% full.


Face Atelier Sheer Pro "Opal"
Retail: $32
Price: 20
Swatched


Japonesque Pro Long Handle Angled Foundation brush
Retail: $25
Price: $15
Used 2x.


Kryolan UV Color Wheel
Retail: $15.00
Price: $10.00
Swatched.



MAC Refill Eyeshadow.
It's a vibrant blue, the sticker has worn off.
Retail: $12
Price: $6
Used.
*These were kept in a Z Palette. When I pulled the Z sticker magnet off of it, the label peeled off. So I can't give a specific color name. Sorry.*


Qosmedix Fan Brush
QTY: 2 Available
Retails: $2
Price: $1
New.
*Item must be purchased with another item*


[R]evolution Fan Brush
QTY: 2 available
Retail: $12.99
Price: $7
Never used.


SILK GREENLINE FOUNDATION BGL-7
Retail: 19.99
Price: $12
Never Used.


Yaby Liquid 8pc Set. "Yellow" The 2 darkest shades are from the "Pinks"
Retail: $84.00
Price: $60.
The lightest & buff are 1/2ish full.


Yaby Bronzer/Highlighter "Copper"
Retail: $10
Price: $6
Used


Yaby Highlight "Fairy"
Retail: $10
Price: $6
Used